Sadly only passing through breathtaking Armenia with the MirgratingMavericks – approx. 750km
Chapter Eight
Sadly only in transit
on the road with the Mavericks
breathtaking Armenia
- Official language
- Capital
- Surface
- Population
- Currency
- National Day
- Mountains
- Armenian
- Yerevan
- 29.743 km²
- 2.800.000
- Dram AMD
- 28th Mai
- Caucasus
Sadly only in transit
The rather grumpy nature of Georgians in the long run increased our excitement to enter Armenia. Border crossings are one of the really quite stressful matters when travelling – the language barriers and the constant feeling of being ripped off. We note 20 February.
Arriving at the border, we actually stumbled upon our friends, the MigratingMavericks, again, although they had quite a head start. They had been waiting at the border for over an hour – some import problems due to the vehicle registered in the Emirates. We spontaneously agreed on a meeting point. The border crossing was very tiring but we are slowly getting used to it. Ziss had to get out again and I with Oleg:
Control No. 1 & stamp – drive 20 m – Control No.2, park on the side and take care of the import of the vehicle. Then we were allowed to pass and take out insurance – all in all, we got through in 2 hours. The mission after each border is always the same, organise a sim card and cash. For this we drove to Noyemberian. We got a 20gb sim for 6’000AMD (equivalent to about CHF 12.-).
The change of scenery happens again immediately after crossing the border. It is a pity that filming is forbidden to be able to present this to you.
When we arrived at the meeting point, we were immediately welcomed by Armenians. The car park in front of the Haghpat monastery was quiet and we were rather shy to stand there with our monster, knowing that a second, even bigger vehicle was coming. “Just stand there,” an older gentleman gestured and immediately offered me a cigarette. What topped the whole thing – they understood my “Slavic talk” and I was able to have a good conversation with most of them. We took the Armenians to our hearts on the very first day – they are friendly and very warm-hearted. After the Mavericks arrived, we had a nice dinner.
“Dream Team” with the Mavericks – Peter & Elena
Haghpat, Stepanavan to Byurakan and further – with the Mavericks in Armenia
We started the day in a relaxed way and visited the really impressive Haghpat Monastery as a group. Then we chugged on to the next meeting point. The wind and the temperatures were quite nasty.
It was kind of spontaneous that we spent almost the whole time of our stay in Armenia with Elena & Peter, it was only planned to go as far as Yerevan. We developed a great rhythm with exploring the sights and doing some travelling. Sometimes spending an evening together, sometimes simply and directly saying “we’ve got the anti-social one today and are holed up in front of the telly” – completely informal – so informal that we can’t share it with others again so quickly.
Picture book: some photos of Haghpat Monastery and its surroundings
The Byurakan Observatory from the air at sunset
of what was once the largest Soviet observatory, which was handed over to the Armenian Academy of Sciences after the fall of the Iron Curtain. The 120km covered on this day were absolutely amazing. The mountains of Armenia are totally overwhelming, gigantic and completely different from our tectonically formed Alps.
Peter and I explored the surroundings in the evening. According to Google, the observatory was open until midnight. To our regret, we were not let in by the security guard – so it remained a leisurely, nocturnal stroll through the village.
On 23th February, however, we were spontaneously called in by another guard and allowed to look at the large telescope, which was actually only possible via a guided tour. Afterwards, it was just 11.00 a.m., the comrade wanted to share his vodka with us. We gratefully declined, as there was still a bit of a drive to do later.
We started another attempt to explore the observatory grounds in depth as a group. The only option was a guided tour for the group at 5€ total, which we accepted. The information from the young astronomer was a bit sparse. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to move freely on the grounds. After a while, our scientist thawed out a bit and it became quite funny.
Our ride from Stepanavan to Byurakan
The Genocide Memorial in Yerevan with a clear view of the Ararat volcano in Turkey.
We manoeuvred ourselves into the capital Yerevan. The third “Last Supper” with the two of them was approaching – this time with Armenian cuisine. It was delicious and cost a total of 68€ for four people with wine and brandy. Another happy evening with a venerable hangover the following day.
As the two of them will be in Armenia for a longer time, they decided to drive a few more kilometres with us.
We did our biggest food shopping of the trip so far. Stocking up for Iran. We changed our fridge logistics. My medicines go into the main fridge and our angel box in the cab is used as a freezer from now on. It was otherwise a routine day of travelling with water fetching accompanied by the brilliant view of the Ararat volcano. Our destination was the “Hell’s Canyon”. Actually, we were fleeing from the snow and the wintry temperatures. However, we ended up once again unintentionally at over 1’660m.a.s.l. in the snowy Armenian highlands. Our Zisslon got in a pretty bad mood on arrival.
Delicious Armenian dinner
Our campsite at Hell’s Canyon
Despite the altitude, the temperature was quite pleasant the following day. Peter and I did a short hike to the canyon in the morning mountain sun, some drone flying and photo shooting. Afterwards we toured together to the next spot – our fourth and “really last supper” was coming up. At least at a really worthy spot at Noravank Monastery.
We gentlemen arranged to have one last little adventure. To hike up the mountain at the crack of dawn and enjoy the sunrise. It was worth it to overcome the strenuous ascent hungover, even though we were somehow on the wrong peak in terms of the sunrise angle. After breakfast came the sad farewell.
The Noravank Monastery
Sunrise over the mountains above Noravank Monastery – with a view of the monastery.
There we were again alone
The actual plan was to spread the coming kilometres in Armenia over the days. The fantastic landscape is a delight. With more snow than in Switzerland, much more snow than we even wanted on our trip. Our first destination was unknowingly at 2’210m.a.s.l. so we moved on straight away. All other spots from P4N or iOverlander were unfortunately closed or so uncomfortable right next to the road that we progressed much faster than expected.
From 2’500m.a.s.l. we went downhill to 700m.a.s.l. so that we could chug over the next 2’500m.a.s.l.. In terms of the roads, this was the most challenging we have driven so far, which was due to the icy roads on the north side. The Iranian truckers thundered past us and over the passes as if there was no tomorrow. They overtook, no matter how narrow, no matter how steep, downhill or uphill it was. On this day, we reached an acceptable parking place at a car wash in Kapan, about 80 km away from the town of Agarak on the Iranian border.
Arriving in Agarak, we planned the last details of our first Iranian adventure, took care of Oleg, organised US dollars, drank the last of our alcohol and marvelled from afar at the crowds at the border crossing.
Welcome to Meghri Passing 2535 altitude
On 1st March, the time had come for an early start at 06:00, as we had expected a very lengthy border crossing – but only on the Iranian side!
At 08:00 sharp, we checked out our passports on the Armenian side and went to the checkout counter for our vehicle. Unfortunately, they couldn’t check us out… The following mistake happened during the import: “We were checked in and out in the same step without anyone noticing. Not even the official who raised the barrier for us when we entered.”
So we were allowed to wait a good 5 hours until the Armenians got this baked with the entry customs. The situation was very tiring.
After what felt like an eternity, armed with our exit stamp, we finally went to the checkpoint. The gentlemen here were in such a good mood and humour that it made up for everything.
It was a great, unfortunately much too short and seasonally misplaced time in Armenia. However, we will always remember the good humour and joy of those people.
Hopefully we will come back again!
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